Into the Wild

Okay, so I wasn't living off twigs and berries, nor was I trying to find some new meaning to life like Chris McCandless (see the movie, it's a good one), but I was in a pretty rural place—China's countryside. Here, cattle and goats outnumber cars in the streets 3-to-1, and drivers need to be more on a lookout for cow dung than potholes.

I finally got a schedule from my organization that has me going to three different villages and Yunnan University over the next two and a half weeks to study the educational situation of the countryside versus the city. What I've found has been interesting, to say the least. I plan on devoting the next post to an in-depth look at the education system of the countryside, or at least this small county named Zhuan Long. There is just too much to go over.

We left on Wednesday morning. I wake up at the crack of 6:30, seriously too early. Especially since we didn't end up leaving until 9:45...they just needed to pick me up to bring me to Mrs. Wang's house to wait for her to get done with some work...I think to myself, "I could've just taken a cab later." I was basically falling asleep standing up, because two nights ago I had come in from Xi'an, and still hadn't caught up on sleep. I pass out immediately in the car, or at least try to. It wasn't very comfortable, but I managed to get some sleep. When I wake up our car is passing an old man herding some goats up the mountain. We're now a mile and a quarter up in the sky, and it's not fog that we're driving through, but clouds. In tow is Mrs. Wang driving, Mrs. Yang, who is her cousin the lady that always cooks for me, and Zak, Mrs. Wang's high school son.

Three hours after leaving we arrive, and two days of extreme hospitality begins. We meet our hosts, Mr. Hu, a portly young guy (1st pic with the tan jacket), and his slender friend with a bad limp (never got his name...he's in the 1st pic with the white shirt). The entire time there I wonder where it came from, but never get up the courage to ask. We are first treated to lunch, which wasn't very good (I haven't like Yunnan food so far, for the most part), and then our bags are taken to our rooms. Mrs. Wang pulls a quick one on me by saying that she and Mrs. Yang are going back to Kunming. Wow. Didn't see that coming. It was going to be just me and Zak for the next two days. I was actually kind of happy—she tends to add structure that I sometimes need a break from.

The amazing thing about this trip is that everything was taken care of in advance by Mrs. Wang. Our living and host arrangements were made and paid for, and once in town, the host made sure that every school was ready for me to do my research. We went school hopping—five schools in two days. When we arrived at each one, a teacher or administrator was there to receive us and show me around. All this was set up for my research. Even Zak served as my translator when necessary. What I saw and learned at the schools was confirming. I've heard reports about the schools in the countryside, but this was personal experience. You'll hear more in the next post.

I went on a couple runs while in town, climbing up mountains on dirt paths past gawking farmers with thatched crop baskets on their backs. The views were incredible. Rivers cut through mountains that had had every parcel of level ground terraced for planting. White clouds floated lowly over grazing cattle. Unfortunately I didn't have my camera, but pictures really wouldn't do it justice.

At nighttime there wasn't much to do—entertainment was not a strongpoint of this town. Yes there was electricity, running water, and even three internet cafes, if you were wondering. As we were on our own at nights, and it was down pouring, preventing an evening walk, I was drawn to the internet cafes. I was also drawn to the trash can, when on the first night I stayed up until 5am losing weight. Those were some of the worst stomach problems I've ever had...midway through the night I asked myself if this is what dying felt like. I'll save ya the details.

Sitting with Mr. Hu before one meal, he explained how their development had been really quick. I immediately thought about how I had been unable to find a COLD Coke in the town the prior night. His gimpy friend explained that his family didn't have electricity until 1983. Jeez. How would my brothers live without electricity to feed their XBOX needs, or better yet, how would I live without the internet? All these meals (that got me sick) were eaten at the hotel's restaurant, which has the patio pictured. I asked why there was never anyone at the restaurant except for us (I also never saw anyone at the hotel either...not a vacation destination, maybe?), and he said that it was because we ate dinner too late. However, we ate lunch at 11am one day, dinner at 6 another day—so I wasn't convinced.

Seeing this part of China, “how the other half lives”, was really eye-opening. On a short walk before we left town, I ran into two sweet old ladies. It was pretty impossible to tell how old they were—I think the countryside ages you a little differently—but the lady closest in the picture was missing more teeth than she owned. They wanted to know about me, because they had seen me pass by, and I found out that they were next door neighbors, and both their children were still living in Zhuan Long. I got the feeling that this was the case for most people here—they were born here and still hadn't left. I certainly wouldn't want to live here, but there was something charming about the place—a nice break from the city bustle.